Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.
This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.
“I’m totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.
The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.
It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.
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